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Strike a pose in these flowy yoga pants, your new best friend for downward dogs and warrior poses alike. The straight, breezy silhouette keeps things comfy, while the wide waistband can be rolled or adjusted to sit just where you like. Made for stretchy knits, they bend and stretch right along with you. A quick, fuss-free sewing project that’s as fun to make as it is to wear.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade pants now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1.8 m (2 yd) 4-way stretch jersey or interlock with spandex (70% stretch)
- All-purpose thread
- Stretch or ballpoint needle
- OPTIONAL: stretch twin needle
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have negative ease built in so that the fabric can stretch and hug the body nicely.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Rise MIN | 19 cm (7 1/4″) | 19.5 cm (7 1/2″) | 20 cm (7 3/4″) | 20.5 cm (8″) | 21 cm (8 1/4″) | 21.5 cm (8 1/2″) | 22 cm (8 3/4″) |
| Rise MAX | 31 cm (12″) | 31.5 cm (12 1/4″) | 32 cm (12 1/2″) | 32.5 cm (12 3/4″) | 33 cm (13″) | 33.5 cm (13 1/4″) | 34 cm (13 1/2″) |
| Inseam | 69 cm (27 1/4″) | 69 cm (27 1/4″) | 69 cm (27 1/4″) | 69 cm (27 1/4″) | 69 cm (27 1/4″) | 69 cm (27 1/4″) | 69 cm (27 1/4″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your hips. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your hip size, measure around the fullest part of your buttock. Just make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind that these pants are full-length, so when sitting down, the hem should cover your ankles.
- If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- This pattern works only with 4-way stretch knits like jersey or interlock. “4-way stretch” means that the fabric can stretch both lengthwise and crosswise.
- I recommend making sportswear using polyamide (Nylon) since it dries quickly and is very breathable. Plus, you should go for a medium-weight knit (above 200 GSM or 6 oz) to have a more opaque garment.
- Make sure your knit has the right amount of stretch before you start your project. For this style, you’re looking for about 70% stretch; so if you pull a 10 cm (4″) piece, it should stretch to 17 cm (6 3/4″) without much effort. If it starts feeling tight before you get there, it’s probably not stretchy enough.
- Also, pay attention to how the fabric bounces back. If it doesn’t snap back to its original shape after you stretch it, that means it doesn’t have great recovery. This can lead to wavy seams and a stretched-out look by the end of the day. To avoid that, go for a knit that has some spandex (or Lycra) in it. It’ll help everything keep its shape.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″).
Sewing
- If you’re using a sewing machine to sew with knits, be sure that it’s equipped with a stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles have a rounder tip that prevents snags.
- If your seams are very wavy, you might want to check for a walking presser foot for your sewing machine. On an overlocker, check to increase the differential or the stitch length.
- If the seams crack when stretched or pucker, be sure that you used a stretch stitch and that the thread is all-purpose polyester, not 100% cotton. You may also need to reduce the thread tension. On an overlocker, reduce the tension of the needles, not the loopers, and reduce the differential or stitch length.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Also, be sure to sew with a stretch stitch, like a zigzag, or a 4-thread overlocker. If you’re using the overlocker, place the left-needle mark 1 cm (3/8″) away from the fabric edge and the blade will cut away any excess fabric.
- INSEAMS & SIDE SEAMS: Place the front and back leg pieces together with right sides facing. Match the notches along the side seams and inseams, then sew. Press the seams toward the back leg pieces so the pants drape smoothly.
- CROTCH: Turn one leg right side out and place it inside the other leg, keeping right sides together. Match the notches and the inseams, then sew along the crotch curve in one continuous seam. Press the seam to one side, then turn the pants right side out.
- WAISTBAND: Sew the waistband pieces together at the side seams, right sides facing, and press the seams open. To reduce bulk, press the seam allowances in opposite directions. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with wrong sides together, aligning the raw edges.
- Pin the waistband to the top of the pants with right sides together, matching side seams and crotch seams. Stretch the band slightly as you sew it in place. Press the waistband up for a clean finish.
- HEM: Finish the raw edges at the bottom of the legs with an overlocker, or leave them raw if you prefer. Fold the hems up 3 cm (1 1/4″) to the wrong side and pin. Sew with a zigzag or twin needle, removing pins as you go. Press the hems and you’re done.
Good luck with your sewing project!
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Thank you very much!!!!!
Can you explain how to sew the cuff and how many times I need to cut it out? Thanks.
thanks
My teenage daughter loves this pattern, I’ve already sewn it for her three times in different fabrics. Thank you very much for the pattern!
I’m glad she likes them! Thanks for your message Évi!
Hey, when I print the pattern, the Box measures only 4,7cmx4,7 cm. I have tried to change it and print different versions but it’s not working. Do you have any suggestions for how to fix that? Thank you very much.
Hi, check the page setup and make sure the paper size is correct. Make sure also that you ticked ACTUAL SIZE in the print settings.
Can you explain how to sew the cuff and how many times I need to cut it out? Thanks.
Hey,
I want to print the sewing pattern but the file does not include layers in adobe acrobat because it’s compressed.
Do you know how to fix that issue? Thank you in advance!
How much fabric do I need? Im 5”7 and going to make a small and cant find anything saying how much fabric.
it says it at the top, about 1.8×1.5m of fabric
Thank you for this free pattern. It fit perfectly.
Do you think this pattern could be adjusted to make shorts?