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Keep it simple with this long-sleeve tee. A versatile wardrobe staple, this evergreen design features a flattering boat neckline, dropped shoulders, and a relaxed fit. Stripes, polka dots, or solid colors all work beautifully with this timeless piece. Style it with anything from carpenter jeans to leather mini skirts. This is a quick and easy make, suitable for sewists of all levels!
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade top now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1.4 m (1 5/8 yd) 4-way stretch jersey or interlock with spandex (40% stretch)
- All-purpose thread
- Stretch or ballpoint needle
- OPTIONAL: Twin stretch needle
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have a significant amount of ease built in to create a more relaxed silhouette.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Waist | 95 cm (37 1/2″) | 99 cm (39″) | 103 cm (40 1/2″) | 107 cm (42″) | 111 cm (43 1/2″) | 115 cm (45″) | 119 cm (46 1/2″) |
| Biceps | 38.4 cm (15″) | 39.6 cm (15 1/2″) | 40.8 cm (16″) | 42 cm (16 1/2″) | 43.2 cm (17″) | 44.4 cm (17 1/2″) | 45.6 cm (18″) |
| Length | 55 cm (21 3/4″) | 56 cm (22 1/8″) | 57 cm (22 1/2″) | 58 cm (22 7/8″) | 59 cm (23 1/4″) | 60 cm (23 5/8″) | 61 cm (24″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind that the hem should reach the hips.
- If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- This pattern works only with 4-way stretch knits like jersey or interlock. “4-way stretch” means that the fabric can stretch both lengthwise and crosswise.
- Make sure your knit has the right amount of stretch before you start your project. For this style, you’re looking for about 40% stretch; so if you pull a 10 cm (4″) piece, it should stretch to 14 cm (5 1/2″) without much effort. If it starts feeling tight before you get there, it’s probably not stretchy enough.
- Also, pay attention to how the fabric bounces back. If it doesn’t snap back to its original shape after you stretch it, that means it doesn’t have great recovery. This can lead to wavy seams and a stretched-out look by the end of the day. To avoid that, go for a knit that has some spandex (or Lycra) in it. It’ll help everything keep its shape.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). You should also notch the pieces cut on the fold to mark the center front and back. To do so, cut right in the fold line.
Sewing
- If you’re using a sewing machine to sew with knits, be sure that it’s equipped with a stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles have a rounder tip that prevents snags.
- If your seams are very wavy, you might want to check for a walking presser foot for your sewing machine. On an overlocker, check to increase the differential or the stitch length.
- If the seams crack when stretched or pucker, be sure that you used a stretch stitch, and that the thread is all-purpose polyester, not 100% cotton. You may also need reduce the thread tension. On an overlocker, reduce the tension of the needles, not the loopers, and reduce the differential or stitch length.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Also, be sure to sew with a stretch stitch, like a zigzag, or a 4-thread overlocker. If you’re using the overlocker, place the left-needle mark 1 cm (3/8″) away from the fabric edge and the blade will cut away any excess fabric.
- SHOULDERS: With right sides together, sew the front and back panels at the shoulders. Press the seams to the back of the garment.
- SLEEVES: With right sides together, sew the top of the sleeves to the armholes. Be sure to line up the notch on the sleeve with the shoulder seams. Press the seams toward the sleeves.
- NECKLINE: Fold the neckband in half, right sides together, and sew the center back seam. Then, press the seam to one side. With wrong sides together, fold the neckband onto itself and align the remaining raw edges.
- With right sides together, sew the raw edges of the neckband to the neckline, matching the seam on the neckband with the center back. Be sure to stretch the band as you sew and align the shoulder and center front notches. Lift the neckband and press it so it lays flat.
- SIDE & UNDERARM SEAMS: Place the front and back of the garment with right sides together, folding the sleeve lengthwise. Then, sew the side and underarm seams, ensuring the armhole seams line up. Press the seams toward the back and turn the garment inside out.
- HEM: If using the overlocker, finish the raw edges at the bottom of the garment and sleeves, or leave them raw if you prefer. Fold the hems up 2 cm (3/4″) to the wrong side and pin. Sew with a zigzag or twin needle, removing pins as you go. Press the hems and you’re done.
- OPTIONAL: If you’re using the twin needle, you can also topstitch along the neckline seam to keep the seam allowances down.
Good luck with your sewing project!
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