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Bring some sass to your tailoring with a sleeveless blazer. Designed with sleek lines and a laid-back fit, this piece showcases classic details like welt pockets and front button closure, reworked without the collar and sleeves. Plus, a full lining keeps the inside as polished as the outside. Throw it on with a tube top and leather pants for an instant club-ready vibe. It’s an expert-level sew, but the payoff is pure style.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade blazer now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1.5 m (1 5/8 yd) bouclé, crêpe suiting, gabardine, linen, or tweed
- LINING: 1 m (1 1/8 yd) viscose (Bemberg) or satin (Kasha) lining
- INTERFACING: 0.9 cm (1 yd) fusible woven interfacing
- All-purpose thread
- Universal needle
- Fusible stay-tape, 1 cm (3/8″) wide
- 1x button, 2 cm (3/4″) wide
- Seam ripper or buttonhole cutter
- Hand sewing needle
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have a significant amount of ease built in to create a more relaxed silhouette.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 92 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
| Hips | 95 cm (37 3/4″) | 99 cm (39 1/4″) | 103 cm (40 3/4″) | 107 cm (42 1/4″) | 111 cm (43 3/4″) | 115 cm (45 1/4″) | 119 cm (46 3/4″) |
| Shoulders | 35.2 cm (13 3/4″) | 36.4 cm (14 1/4″) | 37.6 cm (14 3/4″) | 38.8 cm (15 1/4″) | 40 cm (15 3/4″) | 41.2 cm (16 1/4″) | 42.4 cm (16 3/4″) |
| Length | 76 cm (30″) | 77 cm (30 3/8″) | 78 cm (30 3/4″) | 79 cm (31 1/8″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 81 cm (31 7/8″) | 82 cm (32 1/4″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind that this jacket should extend past the hips to cover the buttocks.
- If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- When you’re picking out a fabric, go for something that has a little stiffness to it to get that structured look. Steer clear of flowy materials! Also, going for a medium-weight fabric is a smart move to keep things from getting too bulky.
- Choose a lining with a weight that complements your outer fabric. For lighter options such as crêpe, gabardine, or linen, a breathable viscose lining like Bemberg works well. For heavier fabrics like bouclé. Tweed, or wool, opt for a more substantial satin lining such as Kasha, which adds warmth and structure.
- Choose a lightweight interfacing so it doesn’t add bulk to the fabric. Also, grab a color that’ll blend right in with light-colored fabric.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). Also, be sure to trace all the pattern markings on the fabrics with a tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.
Sewing
- Before you start sewing, grab a scrap piece of fabric and try out a few stitches to see how the tension and stitch length look. If the seam isn’t turning out great, try re-threading your machine first. Still not working? Then go ahead and adjust the tension. As for stitch length, thicker fabric usually needs longer stitches, so adjust that as needed. And if your stitches are skipping, switch to a new needle or to a bigger one.
- If you’re unsure how to sew buttonholes, just take a look at your sewing machine manual. The process can differ from one machine to another.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide.
- INTERFACING: Place each interfacing piece on the wrong side of its matching fabric piece. Press to set.
- FRONT SIDE SEAM: With right sides together, sew the front and side panels along the front side seam, matching notches. Press seams open.
- WELT POCKETS: Fuse a rectangular piece of interfacing to the wrong side of each front panel, covering the pocket markings.
- Sew two flap pieces together at the curved edge, right sides facing. Trim seam allowances, turn right side out, roll the seams between your fingers to shape, and press. Repeat for the second flap.
- With right sides together, sew the pocket lining to the welt piece, matching notches. Trim seam allowances and press open.
- Place the welt pieces on the front panels, right sides together, aligning with the pocket markings. The pocket linings should point toward the hem. Stitch a rectangle to connect the pocket markings. Cut between the long edges, ending with diagonal cuts into the corners to form small “V” shapes.
- Turn the welts through to the inside and press the long seams open. Fold each welt lengthwise using the side notches as guides so the top and bottom notches meet at the center notch. Press.
- From the right side, insert the flaps into the openings so the raw edges align with the tops of the welts. Stitch along the long rectangle edges to secure the welts and flaps.
- With right sides together, sew the rear of pocket to the welts. Then, place rear of pockets and linings right sides together and sew along the sides and bottom, matching notches.
- CENTER BACK SEAM: Sew the back panels together at the center seam, right sides facing. Press open.
- SHOULDERS: With right sides together, sew the front and back panels at the shoulders. Press open.
- STAY TAPE: Fuse stay tape to the wrong side of the armholes on both front and back. Place the tape 0.5 cm (1/4″) in from the edge. Press to set.
- FRONT LINING: Sew the front linings to the front facings along the vertical seam, starting at the shoulder and stopping 10 cm (4″) above the hem. Press seams open, leaving the bottom of the opening unpressed.
- BACK LINING: With right sides together, sew the back lining pieces together at the center seam. Press open.
- BACK FACING: With right sides together, sew the back lining to the back facing along the curved edge. Trim seam allowances and press open.
- LINING: Be sure to cut the side lining pieces on the line as shown on the pattern. Sew the front linings to the side lining panels, matching notches. Press open.
- Sew front and back linings together at the shoulders, aligning facing seams. Press open. For slippery linings, you may also add stay tape to the armholes.
- NECKLINE & ARMHOLES: With right sides together, sew the lining to the outer fabric along the neckline, front edges, and the lower edge of the front facing. Start and end at the markings at the bottom of the facings. Match shoulder seams as you go. Trim back neck allowances and clip corners. At the front bottom corner, clip diagonally to the marking.
- Sew the lining to the outer fabric around the armholes, matching notches and shoulder seams. Trim allowances. Turn the garment right side out and press, rolling seams with your fingers to shape.
- BACK SIDE SEAMS: Working one side at a time, sew the outer front and back together along the side seam, right sides facing, matching notches. Begin at the hem and sew up to the armhole. With the needle down, pivot to match the lining side seams and sew down to the lining hem. Repeat on the other side, leaving a 10 cm (4″) opening in the lining. Press seams open, then place the lining inside the garment.
- BOTTOM EDGES: With right sides together, sew the bottom edges of lining and outer fabric, matching side seams. Press the seam toward the lining.
- Pull the lining up so the outer layer aligns with the bottom seam of the front facings, and fold the front lining on the notch. With right sides together, sew the remaining vertical seam of the lining down to the marking. Press the seam open.
- Turn the garment right side out through the opening left in the lining. Close the opening by placing the edges wrong side together and stitching close to the edge.
- HEM: Fold the hem on the outer layer 4 cm (1 1/2″) to the inside, or 3 cm (1 1/4″) from the lining seam. Press the hem.
- BUTTONHOLE & BUTTON: Sew a buttonhole on the left front, using the pattern marking as a guide. Carefully open with a seam ripper or buttonhole cutter.
- Sew the button on the right front, following the pattern marking for placement. Give the garment a final press… and you’re done!
Good luck with your sewing project!
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Love this so much, thank you for the lining!
You made my journey of sewing easy I thank you
I love the simplicity of patterns
thanks!