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This all-in-one romper is your solution to a no-fuss workout outfit—no more tugging or pulling at your leggings! Designed for stretchy knits, it features a comfy, body-hugging silhouette, a short inseam, and a simple sleeveless design. Layer it with an oversized button-down shirt or a blazer for a versatile look you can wear outside the gym. A brisk, easy project perfect for sewists ready to tackle knits!
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade romper now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1 m (1 1/8 yd) 4-way stretch jersey, interlock, or performance knit with spandex (70% stretch)
- All-purpose thread
- Stretch or ballpoint needle
- OPTIONAL: stretch twin needle
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have negative ease built in so that the fabric can stretch and hug the body nicely.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 65 cm (23 3/4″) | 69 cm (27 1/4″) | 73 cm (28 3/4″) | 77 cm (30 1/4″) | 81 cm (31 3/4″) | 85 cm (33 1/4″) | 89 cm (34 3/4″) |
| Waist | 55.5 cm (22″) | 59.5 cm (23 1/2″) | 63.5 cm (25″) | 67.5 cm (26 1/2″) | 71.5 cm (28″) | 75.5 cm (29 1/2″) | 79.5 cm (31″) |
| Hips | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) | 92 cm (36″) | 96 cm (37 1/2″) |
| Length | 72 cm (28 1/8″) | 73.5 cm (28 3/4″) | 75 cm (29 3/8″) | 76.5 cm (30″) | 78 cm (30 5/8″) | 79.5 cm (31 1/4″) | 81 cm (31 7/8″) |
| Inseam | 13 cm (5″) | 13 cm (5″) | 13 cm (5″) | 13 cm (5″) | 13 cm (5″) | 13 cm (5″) | 13 cm (5″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own.
Just keep in mind the inseam is short, so the hem should sit further up than mid-thigh. - If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- This pattern works only with 4-way stretch knits like jersey or interlock. “4-way stretch” means that the fabric can stretch both lengthwise and crosswise.
- I recommend making sportswear using polyamide (Nylon) since it dries quickly and is very breathable. Plus, you should go for a medium-weight knit (above 200 GSM or 6 oz) to have a more opaque garment.
- Make sure your knit has the right amount of stretch before you start your project. For this style, you’re looking for about 70% stretch; so if you pull a 10 cm (4″) piece, it should stretch to 17 cm (6 3/4″) without much effort. If it starts feeling tight before you get there, it’s probably not stretchy enough.
- Also, pay attention to how the fabric bounces back. If it doesn’t snap back to its original shape after you stretch it, that means it doesn’t have great recovery. This can lead to wavy seams and a stretched-out look by the end of the day. To avoid that, go for a knit that has some spandex (or Lycra) in it. It’ll help everything keep its shape.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″).
Sewing
- If you’re using a sewing machine to sew with knits, be sure that it’s equipped with a stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles have a rounder tip that prevents snags.
- If your seams are very wavy, you might want to check for a walking presser foot for your sewing machine. On an overlocker, check to increase the differential or the stitch length.
- If the seams crack when stretched or pucker, be sure that you used a stretch stitch and that the thread is all-purpose polyester, not 100% cotton. You may also need to reduce the thread tension. On an overlocker, reduce the tension of the needles, not the loopers, and reduce the differential or stitch length.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Also, be sure to sew with a stretch stitch, like a zigzag, or a 4-thread overlocker. If you’re using the overlocker, place the left-needle mark 1 cm (3/8″) away from the fabric edge and the blade will cut away any excess fabric.
- CENTER SEAMS: With right sides together, sew the front panels at the center front seam. Press the seam to one side. Sew the back panels in the same manner.
- SIDE SEAMS & INSEAMS: With right sides together, sew the front and back of the garment at the side and inseams. Press the seams to the back and turn the garment inside out.
- NECKBAND: With right sides together, sew the short sides of the neckband. Lay both ends of the seam in opposite directions to prevent bulk. Then, fold the band lengthwise, wrong sides together, to match the remaining raw edges.
- With right sides together, sew the raw edges of the neckband to the neckline. Start by matching the seam on the neckband with the middle of the back neckline. Then, sew the band, stretching it as you go to match the corresponding seams and notches. Finally, lift the band and press it so it’s laying nice and flat.
- ARMHOLE BANDS: With right sides together, sew the short sides of one of the armhole bands. Lay both ends of the seam in opposite directions to prevent bulk. Then, fold the band lengthwise, wrong sides together, to match the remaining raw edges. Repeat the step with the other armhole band.
- With right sides together, sew the raw edges of the bands to the armholes. Start by matching the seam on the armhole bands with the side seams. Then, sew the bands, stretching them as you go to match the corresponding seams and notches. Finally, lift the bands and press them so they are laying nice and flat.
- HEM: If you’re working with the overlocker, finish the bottom edges, or leave them raw. Then, fold the bottom edge on each leg 2 cm (3/4″) to the wrong side and pin them in place. After that, sew the bottom edges in place, removing the pins as you work your way around. Use a twin needle or a zigzag stitch for this step. Also, note that if you’re using the twin needle, you should sew on the right side of the garment. Once done, give the hem a good press and you’re done!
- OPTIONAL: Topstitch the armhole and neckline seams with a twin needle or zigzag stitch. Make sure you catch the seam allowances as you sew.
Good luck with your sewing project!
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