Cargo shorts – Free sewing pattern download PDF #UP1066

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Make the cargo trend yours with these Bermuda-style shorts. A summer essential with a sense of utility, it features the classic front and back pockets, large cargo pockets at the sides, and a waistband with practical belt loops. Plus, it offers a contoured fit around the hips and a relaxed straight leg that will look great in denim. A structured project that’s worth the effort.

Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade shorts now!

1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!

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Download the free PDF sewing pattern…

… and once you’re done, share a photo of you wearing proudly your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!

Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.

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Sizing Guide

This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!

If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!

	XS	S	S/M	M	M/L	L	XL
Bust	85 cm (33 1/2″)	89 cm (35″)	93 cm (36 1/2″)	97 cm (38″)	101 cm (39 1/2″)	105 cm (41″)	109 cm (42 1/2″)
Waist	64 cm (25 1/2″)	68 cm (27″)	72 cm (28 1/2″)	76 cm (30″)	80 cm (31 1/2″)	84 cm (33″)	88 cm (34 1/2″)
Hips	94 cm (36 1/2″)	96 cm (38″)	100 cm (39 1/2″)	104 cm (41″)	108 cm (42 1/2″)	112 cm (44″)	116 cm (45 1/2″)

Finished garment measurements

Keep in mind that the final measurements have a significant amount of ease built in to create a more relaxed silhouette.

	XS	S	S/M	M	M/L	L	XL
Waist	70 cm (27 3/4″)	74 cm (29 1/4″)	78 cm (30 3/4″)	82 cm (32 1/4″)	86 cm (33 3/4″)	90 cm (35 1/4″)	94 cm (36 3/4″)
Hips	97 cm (38 1/2″)	101 cm (40″)	105 cm (41 1/2″)	109 cm (43″)	113 cm (44 1/2″)	117 cm (46″)	121 cm (47 1/2″)
Rise	24.5 cm (9 1/2″)	25 cm (9 3/4″)	25.5 cm (10″)	26 cm (10 1/4″)	26.5 cm (10 1/2″)	27 cm (10 3/4″)	27.5 cm (11″)
Inseam	21 cm (8 1/2″)	21 cm (8 1/2″)	21 cm (8 1/2″)	21 cm (8 1/2″)	21 cm (8 1/2″)	21 cm (8 1/2″)	21 cm (8 1/2″)

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Sewing Notes

Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:

Fit and style

• Choose a size based on your hips. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
• To get your hip size, measure around the fullest part of your buttock. Just make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
• On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind this is a Bermuda short, so the hem should sit above the knee, but not mid-thigh.
• If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!

Fabrics

• I’d recommend using medium-weight denim (around 10–12 oz), but it really depends on how strong your sewing machine is. If your machine struggles with thicker fabric, lighter denim works just fine.
• Try to choose a fabric and lining with similar fiber content. That makes it easier to wash and care for later. For example, if you’re using 100% cotton denim, stick with a 100% cotton lining.
• Choose a lightweight interfacing so it doesn’t add bulk to the fabric. Also, grab a color that’ll blend right in with light-colored fabric!

Cutting out

• Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
• After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
• When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
• Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). Also, be sure to also trace all the pattern markings on the fabrics with a tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.

Sewing

• Before you start sewing, grab a scrap piece of fabric and try out a few stitches to see how the tension and stitch length look. If the seam isn’t turning out great, try re-threading your machine first. Still not working? Then go ahead and adjust the tension. As for stitch length, thicker fabric usually needs longer stitches, so adjust that as needed. And if your stitches are skipping, switch to a new needle or to a bigger one.
• If you wish to use topstitch thread, wind the bobbin with a matching regular thread, and be sure to make a tension test on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew. You may need to increase the tension.
• If you’re unsure how to sew buttonholes, just take a look at your sewing machine manual. The process can differ from one machine to another.
• For safety reasons, it’s important to pick a thicker sewing needle when you sew with denim. Don’t skip over this step! Check for a 16 or 18 size needle, or one labelled for jeans.
• You need an unusual tool to sew with denim: a hammer. It will be very handy if you need to flatten a few areas that are too thick. Plus, you also need it to install the jeans button.

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Sewing instructions

Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Also, be sure to sew with a stretch stitch, like a zigzag, or a 4-thread overlocker.

1. INTERFACING: Place the interfacing pieces (waistband, fly facing, and fly shield) at the back of the corresponding pieces and press to fuse them together.
2. SLASH POCKETS: Finish the pocket backings and sew them to the pocket linings. Then, fuse the stay-tape to the pocket openings on the back of the pocket linings. Next, sew the pocket linings to the front panels, with right sides together, at the pocket opening edges. Fold the linings inside the garment and press the pocket openings. Topstitch them twice, first close to the edges, then at 2 cm (3/4″). Finally, fold the linings, with right sides together, to match the side seams, and sew the bottom edges. Finish the bottom edges. Finally, baste the pockets to the side and top edges, and press.
3. FLY: Finish the curved edge on the fly facing, as well as the crotch on both front panels. Then, sew the facing to the crotch on the left front panel, right sides together. Sew from the top to the notch. After that, place the zipper, face down, to the facing so that one side of the zipper lines up with the seam, and sew the side of the zipper that’s further away from the crotch. Next, fold the facing inside the garment and press the seam. Fold and press the rest of the crotch seam 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side and topstitch close to the seam, from the top to the notch. Sew the fly facing in place with a topstitch that’s 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the curved edge (“J” shaped topstitching).
4. On the right front panel, clip the seam allowance at the notch, up to 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the edge. Then, fold and press the section of the crotch seam that’s above the notch 0.5 cm (1/4″) to the wrong side. Next, fold the fly shield lengthwise, with right sides together, and sew the bottom edge. Turn the fly shield inside out and finish the long raw edges together. Press the shield. After that, place the fly shield underneath the zipper and baste its finished edge to the remaining side of the zipper. Finally, place the zipper and fly shield underneath the right front panel so that the folded edge is 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the zipper teeth. Topstitch close to the folded edge to secure the zipper and fly shield.
5. FRONT CROTCH: Sew the front panel together by placing the left panel over the right one, and pin the folded edge on the left side 1 cm (3/8″) from the edge on the right side. Then, topstitch close to the folded edge, from the bottom to about 0.5 cm (1/4″) below the bottom stop on the zipper. Square and topstitch another row next to the first one.
6. BACK DART: With right sides together, fold the back panels to match the dart notches on the waist. The dart markings should also sit in the fold of the fabric. Then, sew from the notches to the markings and press the darts to the back crotch.
7. BACK POCKETS: Fold the top edge on each back pocket twice, first at 1 cm (3/8″) then at 2 cm (3/4″) to the wrong side, and sew the top edges in place. Then, fold the side and bottom edges 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side. Finally, place the pockets on the back panels so that the top corners match the markings below the darts. Topstitch twice the side and bottom edges.
8. SIDE SEAMS: With right sides together, sew the front and back of the garment at the side seams. Finish the seams and press them to the back. Then, topstitch twice the side seams. Turn the garment inside out.
9. SIDE POCKETS: Fold the side pockets with wrong sides together and sew a straight line from the top edges to the markings, and from the bottom edges to the markings. Then, open up the pockets and press a box pleat by matching the notches at the top and bottom edges with the seams. After that, fold the top edges twice, first 1 cm (3/8″) and 3 cm (1 1/4″) to the wrong side. Sew the top edges in place. Finally, fold and press the side and bottom edges 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side.
10. Place the side pockets on the garment so that the top corners match with the markings near the side seams (lower markings). Then, topstitch twice the side and bottom edges.
11. Fold the flaps lengthwise, with right sides together, and sew the short edges. Turn the flaps inside out and push out the corners. Finish the long raw edges together and press the flaps. Then, topstitch twice the short sides and folded edge.
12. Place the flaps above the side pockets, between the top markings, so that the finished edges are 1 cm (3/8″) below them. Then, sew the flaps in place between the markings. Fold the flaps down and topstitch 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the top edges.
13. BACK CROTCH: With right sides together, sew the back panels at the crotch seam. Finish the seam and topstitch it twice on the left side of the garment.
14. INSEAM: Sew the front and back of the garment, with right sides together, at the inseams. Finish the seams and press them to the back. Turn the garment inside out.
15. BELT LOOPS: Finish one long edge on the belt loop and fold the remaining long edge 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side. Fold the finished edge 1 cm (3/8″) over the first folded edge and press the folds. Then, topstitch close to the long edges, catching both folded edges. Finally, cut the piece to get 5 belt loops, each measuring 9.5 cm (3 3/4″) long.
16. Sew the belt loops to the garment, between the markings, with right sides together. The last belt loop is sewn over the back crotch seam, 3 cm (1 1/4″) below the top edge. One of the ends of each belt loop should match the top edges.
17. WAISTBAND: With the garment wrong side out, sew one long edge of the waistband to the top edges, letting the short edges hang 1 cm (3/8″) past the garment. The right side of the waistband should be facing the wrong side of the garment. Then, turn the garment right side out and fold the waistband up. Press the seams toward the waistband, then fold and press the remaining edges of the waistband 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side. Fold the waistband again, wrong sides together, so that the remaining long edge covers the stitching at the waist. Finally, topstitch around the waistband, close to the edges, and press the waistband.
18. Fold the belt loops up and fold the remaining ends so that the fold matches the top of the waistband. Then, hold the belt loop in place with adhesive tape.
19. BAR-TACKS: Set your machine to a narrow and tightly set zigzag. Then, sew bar-tacks that are about 1 cm (3/8″) long at the bottom and top of each belt loop. Add them also at the top corners of the back and side pockets, and at each side of the flaps. For the slash pockets, sew them 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the side and top edges, near the pocket openings. Lastly, add bar-tacks at the bottom of the front fly and where the topstitching starts to curve, securing also the fly shield as you sew.
20. HEM: Fold the bottom edge on each leg twice, first at 1 cm (3/8″) then at 2 cm (3/4″) to the wrong side. Then, sew the bottom edges in place. Press the hem.
21. BUTTONHOLE & BUTTON: Sew a buttonhole on the waistband where the symbol is located, and open it with a buttonhole cutter or a seam ripper.
22. Poke the waistband with an awl or seam ripper where the button symbol is located and insert the back of the jeans button so that the flat part is inside the garment. Then, insert the button, place it against a protected working surface, and hit against the flat part inside the garment to secure both parts.

Good luck with your sewing project!

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