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Enter vacation mode with this retro-inspired jumpsuit. Designed with a daring low back and halter neckline, it lets you soak up the sun in style. The inserted side zipper and elasticated back add practicality, and the high neck collar completes the look. The sleek, wide legs and relaxed silhouette shine in soft, flowing fabrics like viscose or plissé satin for a touch of texture. With just a handful of pattern pieces, it’s the perfect quick sew for a spontaneous dinner date.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade jumpsuit now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 2.6 m (2 7/8 yd) crêpe, gabardine, linen, satin, silk, or viscose
- All-purpose thread
- Universal or “Microtex” needle, depending on the fabric
- Stay-tape, 1 cm (3/8″) wide
- Roughly 0.5 m (5/8 yd) knitted elastic, 1 cm (3/8”) wide
- Invisible zipper, 35 cm (14″) long
- Zipper or invisible zipper foot
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you wearing proudly your new handmade jumpsuit with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Under bust | 70 cm (27 3/4″) | 74 cm (29 1/4″) | 78 cm (30 3/4″) | 82 cm (32 1/4″) | 86 cm (33 3/4″) | 90 cm (35 1/4″) | 94 cm (36 3/4″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have a bit of ease built in to let you move around freely when you’re wearing the garment.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Under bust – min | 67 cm (26 1/2″) | 71 cm (28″) | 75 cm (29 1/2″) | 79 cm (31″) | 83 cm (32 1/2″) | 87 cm (34″) | 91 cm (35 1/2″) |
| Under bust – max | 83 cm (33″) | 87 cm (34 1/2″) | 91 cm (36″) | 95 cm (37 1/2″) | 99 cm (39″) | 103 cm (40 1/2″) | 107 cm (42″) |
| Hips | 94.5 cm (37 1/2″) | 98.5 cm (39″) | 102.5 cm (40 1/2″) | 106.5 cm (42″) | 110.5 cm (43 1/2″) | 114.5 cm (45″) | 118.5 cm (46 1/2″) |
| Inseam | 66.5 cm (26 3/4″) | 66.5 cm (26 3/4″) | 66.5 cm (26 3/4″) | 66.5 cm (26 3/4″) | 66.5 cm (26 3/4″) | 66.5 cm (26 3/4″) | 66.5 cm (26 3/4″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your hips. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your hip size, measure around the fullest part of your buttock. Just make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind that these pants are full-length, so when sitting down, the hem should cover your ankles.
- If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- Choose from a wide range of fabrics, from fluid and silky to more structured and crisp. The choice depends on the silhouette you want to achieve, but avoid fabrics that are too heavy, as they can make the seams bulky.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). Also, be sure to trace all the pattern markings on the fabrics with a tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.
Sewing
- Before you start sewing, grab a scrap piece of fabric and try out a few stitches to see how the tension and stitch length look. If the seam isn’t turning out great, try re-threading your machine first. Still not working? Then go ahead and adjust the tension. As for stitch length, thicker fabric usually needs longer stitches, so adjust that as needed. And if your stitches are skipping, switch to a new needle or to a bigger one.
- If you’re planning to use a fabric like silk, satin, or viscose, definitely grab a “microtex” needle made for slippery fabrics. And here’s a handy tip: when you’re cutting out your pattern in the fabric, throw a sheet of silk paper between the fabric layers. It helps keep the slippery stuff in place and makes cutting way easier!
- This project uses an invisible zipper, so be sure to grab an invisible or regular zipper foot. These kinds of presser feet are designed to let you sew closer to the zipper teeth.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Then, to finish the seams, use a 3-thread overlocker or sew with a zigzag stitch along the fabric edge.
- DARTS: With right sides together, fold the front facing to match the dart notches on a side seam. The dart marking should also fall into the fold of the fabric. Then, sew from the notches to the marking and trim the dart 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the stitches. Press the dart open and repeat on the other side. Sew the darts on the front panels in the same manner.
- STAY-TAPE: Place the stay tape on the wrong side of the front facing 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the armholes. Press over the tapes to fuse to the fabric. Also, apply the tape on the side of the garment you wish to add the zipper, from the hip notch to the top edges.
- CENTER SEAMS: With right sides together, sew the front panels at the center front seam, matching the notches as you go. Finish the raw edges and press the seam to one side. Repeat with the back panels.
- BACK ELASTIC: Cut the back top elastic according to the pattern piece. Mark the elastic and the back top edge in four equal parts. Then, sew one side of the elastic to the wrong side of the back top edge. Stretch the elastic as you sew to match the markings, using a zigzag stitch or an overlocker.
- ZIPPER: Finish the side seams where you want to add the zipper. With right sides together, sew the front and back panels from the bottom up to the hip notch. Open the zipper and sew each side to the side seam opening, ensuring the zipper faces down on the right side of the fabric. The zipper teeth should also be 1 cm (3/8″) from the edges. Use a zipper foot for this. Once done, close the zipper and press the side seam open.
- FRONT FACING: Finish the bottom edge of the front facing and sew it to the front panel, right sides together. Start by sewing the side seam with the zipper using the zipper foot. Then, fold the seam allowance and sew the armholes. Trim the armhole seams down, under-stitch them, and turn the whole thing inside out. After that, press the armholes and baste the remaining side to the garment.
- Fold the elasticated edge 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side and sew it in place. Stretch as you sew to smooth out any creases. If needed, tuck the tip under to prevent it from blocking the zipper.
- SIDE SEAM & INSEAM: With right sides together, sew the other side of the garment, matching the notches as you go. Then, sew the inseams, lining up the center seams. Finish the raw edges on the inseam and side seam, and press them to the back. Turn the whole thing inside out.
- On the back panel, sew a few stitches 0.5 cm (1/4”) from the side seam, catching the seam allowances. Start at the top edge and sew no more than 1 cm (3/8”) down. If needed, tuck any visible tip inside before sewing.
- COLLAR: Clip the seam allowances to the markings, tuck one long edge 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side, and press. Then, fold the collar lengthwise with right sides together and sew the edges, leaving an opening between the markings. Trim the corners, and turn the collar inside out. After that, turn the collar inside out and push out the corners. Shape the seams into the collar edges and press.
- Sew the raw edge of the collar to the wrong side of the neckline. Then, tuck the seam allowances inside the collar and sew the free edge to the garment to hide the stitching.
- HEM: Finish the raw edges at the bottom of the legs and fold them 5 cm (2″) to the wrong side. Pin the bottom edges and sew them in place. Press the hems and you’re done!
Good luck with your sewing project!
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je veux le patron
je veux ce patron joli
Me encanta este mono, lo he hecho y quedó hermoso!
Sugeriría tener más tallas para quienes somos tallas más grandes y queremos seguir vistiéndonos hermosas!
Gracias por compartir!