Note: If you’re viewing this post in a language other than English, your browser might be using automatic translation. While that’s helpful, some words or phrases might not come through exactly as intended. Thanks for understanding!
This front tie top showcases a beautifully plunging neckline, relaxed dropped shoulders, and gathered sleeves that create a chic yet relaxed look. The delicate front ties bring an element of refinement and can be casually paired with lightweight linen or dressed up in luxurious satin for a refined pajama set. Either way, this top is a versatile staple that elevates your wardrobe effortlessly.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade top now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 2 m (2 1/4 yd) double gauze, linen, satin, seersucker, silk, or viscose
- All-purpose thread
- Universal needle
- Loop turner
- Roughly 0.6 m (5/8 yd) knitted elastic, 1 cm (3/8”) wide
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you wearing proudly your new handmade top with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Need help completing the project?
Visit our Ko-fi store to get a printable version of this project, complete with sewing illustrations, cutting instructions, and a pattern piece list.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 92 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Ease is included in the measurements below to make the garment larger than the body.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) | 120 cm (47″) | 124 cm (48 1/2″) |
| Biceps | 33.4 cm (13″) | 34.6 cm (13 1/2″) | 35.8 cm (14″) | 37 cm (14 1/2″) | 38.2 cm (15″) | 39.4 cm (15 1/2″) | 40.6 cm (16″) |
| Length | 68 cm (26 7/8″) | 69 cm (27 1/4″) | 70 cm (27 5/8″) | 71 cm (28″) | 72 cm (28 3/8″) | 73 cm (28 3/4″) | 74 cm (29 1/8″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips I recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number. Just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind that the hem should reach the hips.
- If you want to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- This pattern works only with non-stretch fabrics. Going for a lightweight fabric is a smart move to keep things from getting too bulky. For the ultimate summer vibe, I’d say go for natural fibers like cotton, silk, or linen since they keep you nice and cool.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, place it on your work surface right side up, unfolded. Then, lay out the pattern pieces, printed side up, so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). Also, be sure to trace all the pattern markings on the fabrics with a tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.
Sewing
- Before you start sewing, grab a scrap piece of fabric and try out a few stitches to see how the tension and stitch length look. If the seam isn’t turning out great, try re-threading your machine first. Still not working? Then go ahead and adjust the tension. As for stitch length, thicker fabric usually needs longer stitches, so adjust that as needed. And if your stitches are skipping, switch to a new needle or to a bigger one.
- If you’re planning to use a fabric like silk, satin, or viscose, definitely grab a “microtex” needle made for slippery fabrics. And here’s a handy tip: when you’re cutting out your pattern in the fabric, throw a sheet of silk paper between the fabric layers. It helps keep the slippery stuff in place and makes cutting way easier!
Good luck with your sewing project!
You can support me on Ko-Fi! Every little bit helps cover the costs of pattern-making software, illustration tools, fabrics, threads, and more. If a donation’s not possible, you can still support the blog by liking, sharing, and commenting on my posts. Thanks so much!
Oh my, I shall have some very happy daughters!
Hi, where can I find the step-by-step tutorial?
Hi there, I am a beginner and I started this project, the front tie top UP1051. Just a quick question, should the back facing be of the same length as the back neckline? because in my ase, the back part seems bigger than the back facing. Thank you.
No it’s supposed to be the same length as the back. I’m not sure how you end up with mismatched pieces. Send me a photo through email!
Thank you so much for replying! This is my second time sewing something (my first time was with your wide pants 🙂 so I just go and learn from my mistake. Almost done, I will send a picture when i’m done 🙂