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The 80s power suit is getting an update! Ambitious and elegant, this version features broad shoulders, a zip-front closure, long fitted sleeves, and a modern cropped length. It’s fully lined for a clean, professional finish, so pair it with matching wide leg pants for a corporate-inspired look. Whether you choose a solid suiting or a fun print, it will look great either way. A rewarding, slightly more challenging project for intermediate makers.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade jacket now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1.4 m (1 1/2 yd) bengaline, bouclé, gabardine, tweed or wool
- LINING: 1.2 m (1 3/8″) viscose (Bemberg) or satin (Kasha) lining
- INTERFACING: 0.6 m (3/4 yd) fusible woven interfacing
- All-purpose thread
- Universal needle
- Fusible stay-tape, 1 cm (3/8″) wide
- Zipper foot
- Separating zipper, 40 cm (16″) long
- 2x Shoulder pads
- Hand-sewing needle
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have a bit of ease built in to let you move around freely when you’re wearing the garment.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 95 cm (37 1/2″) | 99 cm (39″) | 103 cm (40 1/2″) | 107 cm (42″) | 111 cm (43 1/2″) | 115 cm (45″) | 119 cm (46 1/2″) |
| Waist | 71 cm (28 1/4″) | 75 cm (29 3/4″) | 79 cm (31 1/4″) | 83 cm (32 3/4″) | 87 cm (34 1/4″) | 91 cm (35 3/4″) | 95 cm (37 1/4″) |
| Shoulder | 42.9 cm (16 3/4″) | 44.1 cm (17 1/4″) | 45.3 cm (17 3/4″) | 46.5 cm (18 1/4″) | 47.7 cm (18 3/4″) | 48.9 cm (19 1/4″) | 50.1 cm (19 3/4″) |
| Biceps | 33.2 cm (13″) | 34.4 cm (13 1/2″) | 35.6 cm (14″) | 36.8 cm (14 1/2″) | 38 cm (15″) | 39.2 cm (15 1/2″) | 40.4 cm (16″) |
| Length | 50.5 cm (19 3/4″) | 51 cm (20″) | 51.5 cm (20 1/4″) | 52 cm (20 1/2″) | 52.5 cm (20 3/4″) | 53 cm (21″) | 53.5 cm (21 1/4″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind this jacket is slightly cropped, so the hem should hit below the waist, above the hip bone.
- If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- When you’re picking out a fabric, go for something that has a little stiffness to it to get that structured look. Steer clear of flowy materials! Also, going for a medium-weight fabric is a smart move to keep things from getting too bulky.
- Choose a lining with a weight that complements your outer fabric. For lighter options such as crêpe, gabardine, or linen, a breathable viscose lining like Bemberg works well. For heavier fabrics like bouclé. Tweed, or wool, opt for a more substantial satin lining such as Kasha, which adds warmth and structure.
- Choose a lightweight interfacing so it doesn’t add bulk to the fabric. Also, grab a color that’ll blend right in with light-colored fabric.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). You should also notch the pieces cut on the fold to mark the center front and back. To do so, cut right in the fold line.
Sewing
- Before you start sewing, grab a scrap piece of fabric and try out a few stitches to see how the tension and stitch length look. If the seam isn’t turning out great, try re-threading your machine first. Still not working? Then go ahead and adjust the tension. As for stitch length, thicker fabric usually needs longer stitches, so adjust that as needed. And if your stitches are skipping, switch to a new needle or to a bigger one.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide.
- INTERFACING: Place the interfacing pieces, sticky side down, to the back of the corresponding fabric pieces and press to fuse them together.
- STAY-TAPE: Apply the stay-tape, sticky side down, along the back of the center edges on the front panels. Press to fuse them together.
- DARTS: With right sides together, fold a front panel to line up the dart notches on the lower edge. Line up also the dart markings, making sure the tip of the dart falls into the fold of the fabric. Then, sew in a straight line from the notch to the first marking, and taper off to the marking in the fold of the fabric. Trim the dart 0.5 cm (1/4″) away from the stitching and press the dart open. Once done, repeat the step on the remaining front panel and both back panels.
- CENTER BACK (OUTER LAYER): With right sides together, sew the back panels at the center seam. Press the seam open.
- SHOULDERS & SIDE SEAMS (OUTER LAYER): With right sides together, sew the front and back panels at the shoulders and side seams. Press the seams open.
- ZIPPER TAB: Fold the zipper tab lengthwise, with right sides together, and sew the short edges. Turn the tab right side out and push out the corners. Line up the long raw edges and press the tab. Then, baste the raw edges to the back of the zipper, on the left-hand side. The tab top and bottom edges should match with the zipper top and bottom stoppers.
- ZIPPER: Separate the zipper and place one side, face down, on its corresponding center front edge. The zipper tape should line up with the fabric edge, and the bottom stopper should be 1.5 cm (5/8″) above the lower notch. Then, sew the zipper in place 0.3 cm (1/8″) from the zipper teeth. If needed, switch for a zipper presser foot for this step. Sew the other side of the zipper in the same manner.
- SLEEVES (OUTER LAYER): Fold the sleeves lengthwise, with right sides together, and sew the underarm seams. Press the seams open and turn the sleeves right side out.
- With the garment turned wrong side out, thread a sleeve through the corresponding armhole. Match the underarm seam with the side seam, and pin the sleeve cap along the armholes, matching the corresponding front and back notches, as well as the shoulder notch. Sew the sleeve in place, removing the pins as you go. Then, press the seam toward the sleeve. Repeat the step with the other sleeve.
- SHOULDER PADS: With the garment wrong side out, center the shoulder pads, cupping upward, over the shoulders. The straight edges extend 2 cm (3/4”) past the armhole seams. Then, thread a hand-sewing needle, and sew the shoulder pads to the shoulder seam allowances.
- COLLAR: With right sides together, sew the collar pieces at the short and top edges. Trim the corners to an angle and turn the collar right side out. Push out the corners and work the seams into the edges of the collar. Press the collar and topstitch 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the seamed edges.
- With right sides together, sew the raw edges of the collar to the neckline, letting the center front edges hang 1 cm (3/8″) past the collar. Be sure to line up the center back notches as you go.
- FRONT LINING: With right sides together, sew the front facings and lining at the vertical seam. Press the seam open.
- BACK LINING: With right sides together, sew the back panels at the center seam. Open up the panels and fold one of them on the center back notch to create a pleat. Press the pleat and the bottom of the seam. Baste the pleat near the top edge.
- With right sides together, sew the back facing and lining at the curved edge. Be sure to line up the pleat with the center back notch. Then, trim down the seam allowances and press them open.
- SHOULDERS & SIDE SEAM (LINING): With right sides together, sew the front and back of the lining at the shoulders and side seams. Be sure to leave an opening of about 10 cm (4″) along one of the side seams. Press the seams open.
- SLEEVES (LINING): Sew the sleeve linings the same way you did on the outer layer (step 7 and 8).
- ATTACHING THE LINING: With right sides together, sew the lining to the outer layer at the bottom edges. Line up the side seams as you sew. Then, press the seams toward the lining.
- Lift the lining to make the neckline edges meet and line up the center front edges, folding the front panels on the notch. Then, sew the neckline and center front edges, securing the collar, zipper and tab. Trim the corners to an angle and trim down the seam allowances along the neckline.
- Through the opening left inside the garment, turn the lining inside the garment and push out the corners. Press the neckline and the center front edges. Then, press the lower edges of the garment, so that the outer layer is folded 4 cm (1 1/2″) in.
- Topstitch 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the center front edges, securing the zipper and tab.
- Through the opening left in the lining, pull a sleeve and its lining out, and pin the lower edges with right sides together. Make sure to line up the underarm seams. Then, sew the lower edges, removing the pins as you go. Once done, replace the sleeve and its lining, and press the lower edge so that the outer later is folded 4 cm (1 1/2″) in. Repeat the step with the remaining sleeve.
- Sew shut the opening in the lining by placing the open edges wrong sides together, and sew close to them. Give your garment a final press and you’re done. Enjoy!
Good luck with your sewing project!
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Thank you very much!!!!
I missed this gorgeous pattern!
Maybe I need to sign up again.
I’m using another hosting website and since then, the newsletter takes forever to send to all the subscribers.