Note: If you’re viewing this post in a language other than English, your browser might be using automatic translation. While that’s helpful, some words or phrases might not come through exactly as intended.
All the sewing patterns I share on my blog are completely free. You never need to subscribe, pay, create an account or share personal information to access my content. The only products I sell are tutorials available on my Ko-Fi shop. If you ever see an ad telling you to “subscribe,” “download,” or “sign up to view content,” please ignore it; it’s not from me.
Thanks for understanding!
Meet your new go-to summer dress with a borrowed-from-the-boys twist. Think classic collar, buttoned half-placket, and easy short sleeves, all flowing into a breezy A-line shape. Made for lightweight denim or twill, it’s the kind of dress that loves sneakers and striped socks as much as you do. A fun, intermediate project for sewists with a touch of tomboy spirit.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade dress now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1.3 m (1 1/2 yd) chambray, chino, denim, or twill
- INTERFACING: 0.3 m (3/8 yd) fusible woven interfacing
- All-purpose thread
- Universal needle or jeans needle (size 16-18), depending on the fabric
- 2x buttons, 1.2 cm (1/2″) wide
- Buttonhole cutter or seam ripper
- Hand-sewing needle
- OPTIONAL: topstitch thread
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have a significant amount of ease built in to create a more relaxed silhouette.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 95 cm (37 3/4″) | 99 cm (39 1/4″) | 103 cm (40 3/4″) | 107 cm (42 1/4″) | 111 cm (43 3/4″) | 115 cm (45 1/4″) | 119 cm (46 3/4″) |
| Hips | 97 cm (38 1/2″) | 101 cm (40″) | 105 cm (41 1/2″) | 109 cm (43″) | 113 cm (44 1/2″) | 117 cm (46″) | 121 cm (47 1/2″) |
| Biceps | 34.6 cm (13 1/2″) | 35.8 cm (14″) | 37 cm (14 1/2″) | 38.2 cm (15″) | 39.4 cm (15 1/2″) | 40.6 cm (16″) | 41.8 cm (16 1/2″) |
| Length | 86 cm (33 7/8″) | 87 cm (34 1/4″) | 88 cm (34 5/8″) | 89 cm (35″) | 90 cm (35 3/8″) | 91 cm (35 3/4″) | 92 cm (36 1/8″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind that this is a short dress, so the hem should hit mid-thigh.
- If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- When you’re picking out a fabric, go for something that has a little stiffness to it to get that structured look. Steer clear of flowy materials! Also, going for a medium-weight fabric is a smart move to keep things from getting too bulky.
- Choose a lightweight interfacing so it doesn’t add bulk to the fabric. Also, grab a color that’ll blend right in with light-colored fabric.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). Also, be sure to trace all the pattern markings on the fabrics with a tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.
Sewing
- Before you start sewing, grab a scrap piece of fabric and try out a few stitches to see how the tension and stitch length look. If the seam isn’t turning out great, try re-threading your machine first. Still not working? Then go ahead and adjust the tension. As for stitch length, thicker fabric usually needs longer stitches, so adjust that as needed. And if your stitches are skipping, switch to a new needle or to a bigger one.
- If you wish to use topstitch thread, wind the bobbin with a matching regular thread, and be sure to make a tension test on a scrap of fabric before you start to sew. You may need to increase the tension.
- If you’re unsure how to sew buttonholes, just take a look at your sewing machine manual. The process can differ from one machine to another.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Then, to finish the seams, use a 3-thread overlocker or sew with a zigzag stitch along the fabric edge.
- INTERFACING: Place the interfacing on the wrong side of the collar stand, collar, and placket pieces. Press firmly to fuse the interfacing to the fabric.
- DART: On the front panel, fold along the dart line so the dart notches on the side seam align. The dart marking should fall directly on the fold. Stitch from the notches to the dart tip, tapering off at the end. Press the dart downward. Repeat for the dart on the opposite side.
- PLACKET: Clip into the front panel at the placket markings and lay the panel wrong side up. Place one placket piece face down on the garment, aligning one long edge with the placket opening. Stitch from the neckline down to the marking.
- Press the seam allowance toward the placket. Fold the other long edge of the placket 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side and press. With wrong sides together, fold the placket in half lengthwise, covering the stitching line. Pin in place so the folded edge hides the seam. Topstitch close to the folded edge from the neckline to the marking.
- Tuck the bottom edges of the placket inside the garment, then attach the second placket to the other side of the opening in the same way. Ensure the bottom of the opening is folded 1 cm (3/8″) to the inside, then topstitch across the front panel just below the opening to secure the plackets.
- Turn the garment right side up, tuck in the placket bottoms as neatly as possible, and topstitch once more. From the right side, there should now be two rows of stitching reinforcing the bottom of the placket.
- CENTER BACK: With right sides together, sew the back panels along the center back seam. Finish the raw edges and press the seam allowance to one side.
- SHOULDERS & SIDE SEAMS: With right sides together, stitch the front and back together at the shoulders, then at the side seams. Finish the raw edges and press all seams toward the back of the garment.
- COLLAR: With right sides together, sew the two collar pieces along the short sides and the long outer edge. Trim the corners diagonally and turn the collar right side out, carefully pushing out the corners. Roll the seams between your fingers to bring them to the edge, then press flat. Topstitch along the finished edges for a crisp finish.
- Baste the collar’s raw edge to one collar stand piece, positioning it between the markings.
- On the second collar stand piece, press the bottom edge 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side. With right sides together, sew the two collar stand pieces along the top and side edges, enclosing the collar. Trim the seam allowances, turn the collar stand right side out, and press the edges flat.
- With the garment wrong side out, pin the unfolded edge of the collar stand to the neckline, right side of collar stand against the wrong side of the garment. Stitch in place. Press the seam allowance upward into the collar stand. Fold the pressed edge of the second collar stand over the seam line, enclosing it. Pin securely, then topstitch around the collar stand close to the edges.
- SLEEVES: Fold each sleeve lengthwise with right sides together and sew the underarm seam. Finish the raw edges and press toward the front. Turn the sleeves right side out.
- With the garment wrong side out, insert each sleeve into its armhole. Match the underarm seam to the side seam and align the notches around the armhole. Stitch the sleeve in place. Finish the raw edges and press the seam allowance toward the sleeve. Repeat for the second sleeve.
- HEM: Turn up the bottom edge of the garment 1 cm (3/8″) to the wrong side and press. Turn up again by 2 cm (3/4″) and press. Stitch close to the inner fold to secure the hem, then press flat. Hem the sleeves in the same way.
- BUTTONS & BUTTONHOLES: On the right placket and collar stand, sew buttonholes as indicated on the pattern. Carefully cut them open with a seam ripper or buttonhole cutter.
- On the left placket and collar stand, sew the buttons by hand, using the pattern markings as a placement guide.
Good luck with your sewing project!
You can support me on Ko-Fi! Every little bit helps cover the costs of pattern-making software, illustration tools, fabrics, threads, and more. If a donation’s not possible, you can still support the blog by liking, sharing, and commenting on my posts. Thanks so much!
Thank you very much!!
I can’t wait to sew this!
this is such a cute dress, one can dress it up or down; I’m going to have to try & get this on my to-do make-it list soon. Thanks
Thank you! Hopefully you make this soon!
Dear Zelena,
Can you tell your followers about the bombardment of ads on your site? This is new. Are you aware of the crazy amount of ads? I have tried the last few days to navigate your website, however get blocked by ads, and are made to watch a little film – there is no opt-out. This ad bombardment, by companies everything a home sewist is not interested in(Temu and similar), is creating an obstruction to your site, and will put people of engaging with you great content. This in turn will affect us supporting your lovely work. I struggled to get to this response/email to contact you.
Can you look it to this? Ask other people who visit your site about this ad bombing expirience. Let me know if you have questions, I want to help you resolve this.
Have a great day,
Best wishes,
Pauline
Hi, I agree with the previous comment about the ads…
Also, there are no layers for this design. Can you add them ?
Thanks for your wonderful designs!!!
I am also waiting ! thank u for such an amazing designs, you are very generous person
Thank you for your kind words!
estoy emocionada
I made this pattern, size medium, in a cotton shirting and it worked perfectly. I had no adjustments to the size either which is always nice.
For the collar area, I did not add buttons and just left it open. It’s not too low and I like a v-neck situation so it worked well. I’m making 2 more, which I cut out last night, and will most likely put buttons on one and snaps on the other, just for variety.
Has anyone added inseam pockets? I’m thinking of doing that too.
How about 1 or 2 decorative pockets in the chest area? Thoughts on this?