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Bring back the Y2K vibes with this cropped hoodie! It features dropped shoulders, a zip-up front, and a wide waistband that gives that perfect cinched look. Sew it up in a soft brushed French terry with a matching rib trim for ultimate throwback coziness. Originally worn in a matching sweat set, now it looks just as fresh with a pair of wide-leg jeans. A fun project for intermediate sewists and confident beginners ready to level up.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade hoodie now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1.3 m (1 1/2 yd) french terry, ponte knit, or scuba knit
- RIB: 0.3 m (3/8 yd) tubular ribbed knit
- All-purpose thread
- Stretch or ballpoint needle
- Fusible stay-tape, 1 cm (3/8″) wide
- 1x separating zipper, 40 cm (16″) long
- Roughly 0.7 m (3/4 yd) twill tape, 0.5 cm (1/4″) wide
- OPTIONAL: zipper foot and twin stretch needle
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have a significant amount of ease built in to create a more relaxed silhouette.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 93 cm (36 3/4″) | 97 cm (38 1/4″) | 101 cm (39 3/4″) | 105 cm (41 1/4″) | 109 cm (42 3/4″) | 113 cm (44 1/4″) | 117 cm (45 3/4″) |
| Waist | 66 cm (26 1/2″) | 70 cm (28″) | 74 cm (29 1/2″) | 78 cm (31″) | 82 cm (32 1/2″) | 86 cm (34″) | 90 cm (35 1/2″) |
| Biceps | 35.6 cm (14″) | 36.8 cm (14 1/2″) | 38 cm (15″) | 39.2 cm (15 1/2″) | 40.4 cm (16″) | 41.6 cm (16 1/2″) | 42.8 cm (17″) |
| Length | 48.5 cm (19″) | 49 cm (19 1/4″) | 49.5 cm (19 1/2″) | 50 cm (19 3/4″) | 50.5 cm (20″) | 51 cm (20 1/4″) | 51.5 cm (20 1/2″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind this top is slightly cropped, so the hem should hit below the belly button.
- If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- This pattern works best with heavier fabrics with a slight mechanical stretch, such as French terry. Mechanical stretch refers to the natural stretch created by the fabric’s weave without the addition of spandex.
- You can also go for a double knit like ponte or scuba knit.
- Since this garment is unlined, make sure that the back of the fabric is soft so it’s comfortable against the skin.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″).
Sewing
- If you’re using a sewing machine to sew with knits, be sure that it’s equipped with a stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles have a rounder tip that prevents snags.
- If your seams are very wavy, you might want to check for a walking presser foot for your sewing machine. On an overlocker, check to increase the differential or the stitch length.
- If the seams crack when stretched or pucker, be sure that you used a stretch stitch and that the thread is all-purpose polyester, not 100% cotton. You may also need to reduce the thread tension. On an overlocker, reduce the tension of the needles, not the loopers, and reduce the differential or stitch length.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Also, be sure to sew with a stretch stitch, like a zigzag, or a 4-thread overlocker. If you’re using the overlocker, place the left-needle mark 1 cm (3/8″) away from the fabric edge and the blade will cut away any excess fabric.
- SHOULDERS: With right sides together, sew the front and back panels at the shoulders. Press the seams toward the back.
- SLEEVES: With right sides together, attach the sleeves to the armholes, aligning the sleeve notch with the shoulder seam. Press the seams toward the sleeves.
- SIDE SEAMS & UNDERARM: Place the front and back panels right sides together, folding the sleeves lengthwise. Sew the side seams and underarm seams in one continuous line, matching the armholes. Press the seams toward the back. Turn the garment right side out.
- WAISTBAND: Fold the waistband lengthwise with wrong sides together. Pin and sew it to the bottom edge of the garment, right sides together. Stretch the band slightly as you sew, matching the center back notch and side seam notches. Fold the waistband down and press the seam allowance upward.
- ZIPPER: Apply stay tape along the center front edges, from neckline to bottom of waistband, positioning it inside the garment 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the raw edges. Fuse in place with an iron. If desired, finish the edges with an overlocker; otherwise, leave them raw.
- To attach the zipper, place one side face down along its corresponding center front edge. Position the top stopper 1.3 cm (1/2″) below the neckline. Stitch in place with a zipper foot if needed. Mark the waistband seam on the opposite zipper tape, then sew the other side, aligning the mark with the waistband seam.
- Fold the center front edges and topstitch 0.5 cm (1/4″) from the fold to secure the zipper.
- HOOD: With right sides together, sew the hood pieces along the curved edge, matching notches. Press the seam to one side. Finish the hood’s straight edge with an overlocker, or leave it raw. Fold the edge 3 cm (1 1/4″) to the wrong side and stitch in place.
- Attach the hood to the neckline with right sides together, aligning hood notches with shoulder seams and the hood seam with the center back notch. Sew with a straight stitch.
- Place twill tape over the neckline seam, aligning one edge of the tape with the seam. Extend the tape ends at least 1 cm (3/8″) beyond the center front. Stitch the tape in place close to the seam. Trim the seam allowances narrower than the tape.
- Fold the seam and tape downward, tucking in the tape ends. Stitch the opposite edge of the tape to the garment. This stitching will show on the right side.
- CUFFS: Fold each cuff in half along the short edge, right sides together, and stitch. Press the seam allowances in opposite directions to reduce bulk. Fold each cuff lengthwise with wrong sides together, aligning raw edges.
- With right sides together, sew the cuffs to the sleeve ends, stretching them slightly to fit. Align the cuff seam with the underarm seam. Fold the cuffs down and press. Give the garment a final press, and it’s done!
Good luck with your sewing project!
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Thank you for sharing!!!
This is all kinds of fabulous
On the sleeves which way do the arms go? There is a pointed part at the top that slants toward the bottom of the sleeve, does this part go at the shoulder or a the side seam? Other than this GREAT pattern