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Whether you’re headed to the beach or staying in the city, this versatile two-piece set has you covered. It features a cropped tank with a retro slash neckline, paired with sleek short leggings for an easy, body-hugging fit. Perfect for a variety of knits, from breezy openwork crochet to everyday organic cotton jersey, this set can be worn over your swimsuit or styled on its own with tall boots. A simple, no-fuss sewing project suitable for all skill levels, and one you’ll want to make again and again.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade set now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1 m (1 1/8 yd) jersey knit, interlock, crochet knit, crêpe knit, Liverpool knit, or performance knit with at least 70% stretch
- All-purpose thread
- Stretch or ballpoint needle
- Roughly 0.9 m (1 yd) knitted elastic, 2 cm (3/4″) wide
- OPTIONAL: stretch twin needle
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have negative ease built in so that the fabric can stretch and hug the body nicely.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) | 92 cm (36″) |
| Shoulders | 26.2 cm (10 1/8″) | 27 cm (10 1/2″) | 27.8 cm (10 7/8″) | 28.6 cm (11 1/4″) | 29.4 cm (11 5/8″) | 30.2 cm (12″) | 31 cm (12 3/8″) |
| Length TOP | 39 cm (15 3/8″) | 40 cm (15 3/4″) | 41 cm (16 1/8″) | 42 cm (16 1/2″) | 43 cm (16 7/8″) | 44 cm (17 1/4″) | 45 cm (17 5/8″) |
| Low waist | 60 cm (24″) | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) |
| Hips | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) | 92 cm (36″) | 96 cm (37 1/2″) |
| Rise | 20.5 cm (7 7/8″) | 21 cm (8 1/8″) | 21.5 cm (8 3/8″) | 22 cm (8 5/8″) | 22.5 cm (8 7/8″) | 23 cm (9 1/8″) | 23.5 cm (9 3/8″) |
| Inseam | 7 cm (2 3/4″) | 7 cm (2 3/4″) | 7 cm (2 3/4″) | 7 cm (2 3/4″) | 7 cm (2 3/4″) | 7 cm (2 3/4″) | 7 cm (2 3/4″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- For the top, choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- For the shorts, choose a size based on your hips. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your hip size, measure around the fullest part of your buttock. Just make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind the top is slightly cropped, so the hem should hit slightly above the belly button. The hem on the shorts should also sit further up than mid-thigh.
- If you need to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- This pattern works best with 4-way stretch knits like jersey or interlock. “4-way stretch” means that the fabric can stretch both lengthwise and crosswise.
- Make sure your knit has the right amount of stretch before you start your project. For this style, you’re looking for about 70% stretch; so if you pull a 10 cm (4″) piece, it should stretch to 17 cm (6 3/4″) without much effort. If it starts feeling tight before you get there, it’s probably not stretchy enough. In this case, you can use a larger pattern size than what you would normally use.
- Also, pay attention to how the fabric bounces back. If it doesn’t snap back to its original shape after you stretch it, that means it doesn’t have great recovery. This can lead to wavy seams and a stretched-out look by the end of the day. To avoid that, go for a knit that has some spandex (or Lycra) in it. It’ll help everything keep its shape.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). Also, be sure to trace all the pattern markings on the fabrics with a tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.
Sewing
- If you’re using a sewing machine to sew with knits, be sure that it’s equipped with a stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles have a rounder tip that prevents snags.
- If your seams are very wavy, you might want to check for a walking presser foot for your sewing machine. On an overlocker, check to increase the differential or the stitch length.
- If the seams crack when stretched or pucker, be sure that you used a stretch stitch and that the thread is all-purpose polyester, not 100% cotton. You may also need to reduce the thread tension. On an overlocker, reduce the tension of the needles, not the loopers, and reduce the differential or stitch length.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Also, be sure to sew with a stretch stitch, like a zigzag, or a 4-thread overlocker. If you’re using the overlocker, place the left-needle mark 1 cm (3/8″) away from the fabric edge and the blade will cut away any excess fabric.
- BACK NECKBAND: Fold the neckband lengthwise, wrong sides together, and align the raw edges with the back neckline. Sew in place, stretching the band slightly as you sew and making sure the center back notches match. Press the neckband upward so it lies flat.
- SHOULDERS: Clip the front panel to the markings. If using an overlocker, finish the top edge; otherwise, leave it raw. With right sides together, match the front and back at the shoulder edges. Fold the front neckline over the back, aligning the shoulder edges again, and sew to secure the front neckline. Turn the front neckline right side out and press the shoulder seams toward the front.
- SIDE SEAMS: With right sides together, sew the front and back together along the side seams. Press the seams toward the back and turn the garment inside out.
- ARMHOLES: With right sides together, sew the short ends of one armhole band. Press the seam allowances in opposite directions to reduce bulk. Fold the band lengthwise, wrong sides together, so the raw edges meet. Repeat for the second armhole band.
- Sew each band to its armhole, right sides together, matching the band seams with the side seams. Stretch the band slightly to match the notches as you sew. At the shoulders, be sure to catch the front neckline in the seam. Press the finished bands upward so they lie flat.
- INSEAM: With right sides together, fold each leg panel and sew the inseam. Press the seam allowances toward the back.
- CROTCH: Turn one leg right side out and place it inside the other leg, right sides together. Sew the crotch seam, aligning the notches and inseams. Press the seam to one side, then turn the shorts right side out.
- WAIST ELASTIC: Cut the elastic according to the pattern piece labeled “waist elastic.” Overlap the ends by 2 cm (¾”) and stitch securely. Divide both the elastic and the top edge of the shorts into quarters and mark. Pin the elastic to the inside top edge, aligning the markings. Sew in place with a zigzag stitch or overlocker, keeping the elastic flat but not stretched.
- Fold the elasticated edge 2 cm (¾”) to the inside and topstitch with a zigzag or twin needle. If using a twin needle, sew from the right side of the garment.
- HEM: Finish the bottom edges of the legs and top with an overlocker, or leave them raw. Fold each edge 2 cm (¾”) to the wrong side, pin, and stitch in place, removing pins as you sew. Press the hems.
Good luck with your sewing project!
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Thanks again.!
So cute!
Thank you !
Is there any video witch show how realise this pattern ?
I started a leopard version 🙂
i’ll tag you when the tshirt will be done !
Thanks again
Perfeito para usar em casa, parece bem confortável! Obrigada pelo padrão!
Can you please explain how to attach the shoulder seam better, there is a v shape cut of and there is no mention on how to add it to the back collar and shoulder seam together
Thank you so mush! I was looking for a pair of boxers and these are perfect! S2
Can’t figure out how to finish the top either, with the marking and the cut? How is there no front neckline when there is one in the back? I’m honestly lost here and would need some help 🙂
Only the back neckline has a band. The front is made by matching the shoulder edges, right sides together, then fold the odd flap (the v in the front pattern piece) around over the back shoulder (it would be right side down on the wrong side of the back. It is sewn in one seam. You could sew the shoulder seam, then fold that facing over to the back and sew it in place. It creates the facing for the front neckline.
Hi,
love the project, but similarly to previous comments – the 2nd step is very confusing. Would it be possible to explain further how to fold that front neckline and match it with the back with the neckband attached? I’ve been trying to figure it out for hours and I’m just blanking.