Note: If you’re viewing this post in a language other than English, your browser might be using automatic translation. While that’s helpful, some words or phrases might not come through exactly as intended. Thanks for understanding!
Simple yet striking, this bandeau top is a staple for a casual stroll in town. With a built-in bra and a sleek, close fit made for stretch knits, it offers comfort without compromising style. Its minimalist design makes it easy to dress up with pleated pants or keep casual with sweats. A fast, satisfying sew, this basic piece adds a touch of versatility to your wardrobe.
Download the FREE PDF sewing pattern, and sew your own handmade top now!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- 0.8 m (1 yd) 4-way stretch jersey or interlock with spandex (50% stretch)
- All-purpose thread
- Stretch or ballpoint needle
- 0.9 m (1 yd) knitted elastic, 1 cm (3/8”) wide
- 0.6 m (3/4 yd) clear elastic,
0.5 cm (1/4”) wide
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.

Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you wearing proudly your new handmade top with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Need help completing the project?
Visit our Ko-fi store for printable sewing tutorials, complete with step-by-step instructions, detailed line drawings, a comprehensive sizing guide, and a full list of required materials!
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have negative ease built in so that the fabric can stretch and hug the body nicely.
XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
Top | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) | 92 cm (36″) |
Bust | 71.5 cm (28 1/2″) | 75.5 cm (30″) | 79.5 cm (31 1/2″) | 83.5 cm (33″) | 87.5 cm (34 1/2″) | 91.5 cm (36″) | 95.5 cm (37 1/2″) |
Hips | 85.5 cm (34″) | 89.5 cm (35 1/2″) | 93.5 cm (37″) | 97.5 cm (38 1/2″) | 101.5 cm (40″) | 105.5 cm (41 1/2″) | 109.5 cm (43″) |
Length | 70 cm (27 7/8″) | 71 cm (28 1/4″) | 72 cm (28 5/8″) | 73 cm (29″) | 74 cm (29 3/8″) | 75 cm (29 3/4″) | 76 cm (30 1/8″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- First up, choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you. If your hips are calling for a different size, widen or narrow down the pattern at the hemline to fit your measurements.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number—just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- On the finished garment measurements chart, you can also see how long the garment is and if it’ll work for your height. It’s a good idea to compare the length with something similar you already own. Just keep in mind that this top is neither long or cropped, so it should cover the abdomen, but shouldn’t extend past the hips.
- If you want to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- This pattern works only with stretch knits like jersey or interlock.
- Make sure your knit has the right amount of stretch before you start your project. For this style, you’re looking for about 50% stretch—so if you pull a 10 cm (4″) piece, it should stretch to 15 cm (6″) without much effort. If it starts feeling tight before you get there, it’s probably not stretchy enough.
- Also, pay attention to how the fabric bounces back. If it doesn’t snap back to its original shape after you stretch it, that means it doesn’t have great recovery. This can lead to wavy seams and a stretched-out look by the end of the day—not ideal. To avoid that, go for a knit that has some spandex (or Lycra) in it. It’ll help everything keep its shape.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″).
Sewing
- Before you start sewing, grab a scrap piece of fabric and try out a few stitches to see how the tension and stitch length look. If the seam isn’t turning out great, try re-threading your machine first. Still not working? Then go ahead and adjust the tension. As for stitch length—thicker fabric usually needs longer stitches, so adjust that as needed. And if your stitches are skipping, switch to a new needle or to a bigger one.
- If you’re using a sewing machine to sew with knits, be sure that it’s equipped with a stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles have a rounder tip that prevents snags.
- If your seams are very wavy, you might want to check for a walking presser foot for your sewing machine. On an overlocker, check to increase the differential or the stitch length.
- If the seams crack when stretched or pucker, be sure that you used a stretch stitch, and that the thread is all-purpose polyester, not 100% cotton. You may also need reduce the thread tension. On an overlocker, reduce the tension of the needles, not the loopers, and reduce the differential or stitch length.
Good luck with your sewing project!
You can support me on Ko-Fi! Every little bit helps cover the costs of pattern-making software, illustration tools, fabrics, threads, and more. If a donation’s not possible, no worries — you can still support the blog by liking, sharing, and commenting on my posts. Thanks so much!
