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Looking for the perfect outfit tonight? Elevate your style with this sleek dress featuring a slash neck, a sleeveless bodice, shirring at the waist, and a chic knee length. Designed for stretch knits, this body-hugging silhouette will make you feel comfortable and confident. Create it in no time and get ready to make an impact!
1 cm (3/8″) seam allowance included!
Material
- FABRIC: 1.4 m (1 1/2 yd) 4-way stretch jersey or interlock with spandex (50% stretch)
- All-purpose thread
- Stretch or ballpoint needle
- Roughly 0.4 cm (1/2 yd) clear elastic, 0.5 cm (1/4″) wide
- OPTIONAL: Twin stretch needle
Important: Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 150 cm (59″). If your fabric is narrower, additional yardage may be required.
Download the free PDF sewing pattern…
… and once you’re done, share a photo of you proudly wearing your new handmade piece with #unfetteredpatterns or tag us @unfetteredpatterns!
Need help to print your pattern? Check our detailed tutorial here! Also, find out how you can customize your pattern for A0 printers and projectors here.
Sizing Guide
This pattern is drafted according to the following body measurements. Standard height is 1.64 m (5.4 ft). Check this tutorial if you want to add sizes to your pattern!
If you want to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 85 cm (33 1/2″) | 89 cm (35″) | 93 cm (36 1/2″) | 97 cm (38″) | 101 cm (39 1/2″) | 105 cm (41″) | 109 cm (42 1/2″) |
| Waist | 64 cm (25 1/2″) | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) |
| Hips | 94 cm (36 1/2″) | 96 cm (38″) | 100 cm (39 1/2″) | 104 cm (41″) | 108 cm (42 1/2″) | 112 cm (44″) | 116 cm (45 1/2″) |
Finished garment measurements
Keep in mind that the final measurements have negative ease built in so that the fabric can stretch and hug the body nicely.
| XS | S | S/M | M | M/L | L | XL | |
| Bust | 68 cm (27″) | 72 cm (28 1/2″) | 76 cm (30″) | 80 cm (31 1/2″) | 84 cm (33″) | 88 cm (34 1/2″) | 92 cm (36″) |
| Waist | 58 cm (23″) | 62 cm (24 1/2″) | 66 cm (26″) | 70 cm (27 1/2″) | 74 cm (29″) | 78 cm (30 1/2″) | 82 cm (32″) |
| Hips | 78 cm (31″) | 82 cm (32 1/2″) | 86 cm (34″) | 90 cm (35 1/2″) | 94 cm (37″) | 98 cm (38 1/2″) | 102 cm (40″) |
| Shoulders | 26.2 cm (10 1/8″) | 27 cm (10 1/2″) | 27.8 cm (10 7/8″) | 28.6 cm (11 1/4″) | 29.4 cm (11 5/8″) | 30.2 cm (12″) | 31 cm (12 3/8″) |
| Length | 93.5 cm (36 7/8″) | 94.5 cm (37 1/4″) | 95.5 cm (37 5/8″) | 96.5 cm (38″) | 97.5 cm (38 3/8″) | 98.5 cm (38 3/4″) | 99.5 cm (39 1/8″) |
Sewing Notes
Here are some tips we recommend for a successful sewing project:
Fit and style
- Choose a size based on your bust. Take a look at the body measurements chart to guide you.
- To get your bust size, measure around the fullest part of your chest. Take a nice deep breath before you check the number—just to make sure the measuring tape isn’t too tight. You want it snug, but not squeezing you.
- Just keep in mind that this dress is knee-length, so the hem should hit above the knee.
- If you want to adapt the length of your garment to your height, check this helpful tutorial here!
Fabrics
- This pattern works only with stretch knits like jersey or interlock.
- Make sure your knit has the right amount of stretch before you start your project. For this style, you’re looking for about 50% stretch—so if you pull a 10 cm (4″) piece, it should stretch to 15 cm (6″) without much effort. If it starts feeling tight before you get there, it’s probably not stretchy enough.
- Also, pay attention to how the fabric bounces back. If it doesn’t snap back to its original shape after you stretch it, that means it doesn’t have great recovery. This can lead to wavy seams and a stretched-out look by the end of the day. To avoid that, go for a knit that has some spandex (or Lycra) in it. It’ll help everything keep its shape.
Cutting out
- Before you start cutting your fabrics, wash and dry them like you’d do for the finished piece. Keep in mind the fabric type and what it’s made of so you choose the right cleaning method (like how hot the water should be or what kind of cycle to use…). Plus, the dyes used on certain fabrics tend to bleed when washed, so wash yours separately, or with similar colors.
- After you wash and dry the fabric, give it a good press to get rid of any creases. Just make sure your iron is set to the right temperature for the fabric. Generally, synthetic fibers like acrylic, spandex, or polyester should be pressed on low heat, while natural fibers like cotton, wool, or linen can handle higher heat.
- When you’re set to cut the fabric, just fold it lengthwise right sides together. Make sure the fold is straight and doesn’t twist up. If it does, unfold it and refold until it’s nice and flat. Then, lay out the pattern pieces so the grainline runs parallel to the selvages.
- Make sure you don’t cut the notches too long; aim for them to be around 0.3-0.4 cm long (1/8″). Also, be sure to also trace all the pattern markings on the fabrics with a tailor’s chalk or a fabric marker.
Sewing
- If you’re using a sewing machine to sew with knits, be sure that it’s equipped with a stretch or ballpoint needle. These needles have a rounder tip that prevents snags.
- If your seams are very wavy, you might want to check for a walking presser foot for your sewing machine. On an overlocker, check to increase the differential or the stitch length.
- If the seams crack when stretched or pucker, be sure that you used a stretch stitch, and that the thread is all-purpose polyester, not 100% cotton. You may also need reduce the thread tension. On an overlocker, reduce the tension of the needles, not the loopers, and reduce the differential or stitch length.
Sewing instructions
Just a quick reminder that, unless stated otherwise, your seam allowances should be 1 cm (3/8″) wide. Also, be sure to sew with a stretch stitch, like a zigzag, or a 4-thread overlocker. If you’re using the overlocker, place the left-needle mark 1 cm (3/8″) away from the fabric edge and the blade will cut away any excess fabric.
- BACK NECKBAND: Fold the neckband lengthwise, wrong sides together, and align the raw edges with the back neckline. Sew in place, stretching the band slightly as you sew and making sure the center back notches match. Press the neckband upward so it lies flat.
- SHOULDERS: Clip the front panel to the markings. If using an overlocker, finish the top edge; otherwise, leave it raw. With right sides together, match the front and back at the shoulder edges. Fold the front neckline over the back, aligning the shoulder edges again, and sew to secure the front neckline. Turn the front neckline right side out and press the shoulder seams toward the front.
- SIDE SEAMS: Place the front and back pieces right sides together. Cut the clear elastic into two lengths, using the “side elastic” pattern piece as a guide.
- With the back panel facing up, begin sewing one side seam from the armhole downward. When you reach the first marking, position the clear elastic along the seam and continue sewing to secure it in place. Stretch the elastic as you sew so it meets the second marking. Continue stitching the seam to the hem. Sew the opposite side in the same manner, starting at the bottom hem and sewing upward. Press the seam allowances toward the back and turn the garment right side out.
- ARMHOLES: With right sides together, sew the short ends of one armhole band. Press the seam allowances in opposite directions to reduce bulk. Fold the band lengthwise, wrong sides together, so the raw edges meet. Repeat for the second armhole band.
- Sew each band to its armhole, right sides together, matching the band seams with the side seams. Stretch the band slightly to match the notches as you sew. At the shoulders, be sure to catch the front neckline in the seam. Press the finished bands upward so they lie flat.
- HEM: Finish the raw edges at the bottom of the legs with an overlocker, or leave them raw if you prefer. Fold the hems up 3 cm (1 1/4″) to the wrong side and pin. Sew with a zigzag or twin needle, removing pins as you go. Press the hems and you’re done.
Good luck with your sewing project!
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Great pattern! Glad to have found your site!
A beautiful pattern. Thank you so much for sharing! It’s really appreciated. Now all I need to do is get brave enough to make them!
Thank you for the patterns! Can I contact you for a comission? Of course I would pay for it!!
Someone is selling your pattern on Etsy, you should repport the product for selling your intelectual property without permission https://www.etsy.com/no-en/listing/1519831711/slash-neck-mini-dress-sewing-pattern#report-overlay-trigger
Thank you! I like this pattern and make it with punto jersey. It went a bit to tight, so watch out dear sewciety 🙂 I would like to make it a little bigger – but i don’t have fabric left. What would you recommend?
Después de muchos años sin coser estoy intentando hacer este vestido pero soy incapaz de montarlo 😫 ¿alguien puede ayudarme? Gracias
hey, this dress looks great and I’ve already started sewing it. But I’m not sure about point 5 – where exactly should the elastic bands be sewn on? Sorry for the perhaps stupid question…
The elastic bands are used to gather the side seams near the waist.
Hi, Can you explain the neckline a bit better ? does the front neckline sanwich the back? found it a bit confusing 🙂 thanks!
great pattern….thanks for having it. Cu, Julia
would you be able to make paid instructions for this dress like you have for a bunch of your other patterns? I’m having trouble figuring out the neckline. I’m willing to pay for the detailed instructions as I really want to finish this dress and not waste all of that fbric!
Hi, I added some instructions to the blog post.
Hi! I also wonder if there are any instructions since I can´t find any. I have assembeled the pdf pattern but I cant figure out how to assemble it. I understad other people have had instructions. Where can i find them?
Thank you in advance, and thank you for being generous with your patterns!
Regards,
Emma
Hi, I just added some instructions in the blog post. You might want to add markings where the seam lines meet at the front shoulder, where the neck facing start.